Husavík 出海觀鯨 - 冰島夏日環島自駕遊

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今次我哋係幫襯一間舖號叫 Húsavík North Sailing 嘅觀鯨團出海,我哋參加嘅係一個名為 Whales, Puffins and Sails (NS-2) 嘅船團,船程來回大約四個鐘,途中會先去一個可以睇到 Puffins 嘅小島,跟住再去睇鯨魚,船團收費就盛惠每位 EUR 100 大元。哩間公司重有另一款都大路嘅觀鯨團,團名係 Húsavík Original Whale Watching Tour (NS-1),哩個團同我哋參加嗰個主要嘅分别係冇咗睇 Puffins 嘅行程,船程就少咗一個鐘,團費亦平啲盛惠 EUR 78 大元。

North Sailing 喺夏季每日都有幾班觀鯨團出海,見佢哋啲團出得咁密所以我都冇喺出發去冰島之前預約出團,諗住去到冰島等睇到當日嘅天氣預報嗰陣先揀個比較好天嘅日子出團。我哋喺 Húsavík 會逗留兩晚,到步冰島之後睇天氣預報見我哋喺 Húsavík 第二晚嘅天氣似乎比較好,於是我哋喺去到 Egilsstaðir 嗰晚先上 North Sailing 嘅網站預約哩一日嘅船團。

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大約晏晝四點零鐘,我哋由民宿出門行過去位於海邊碼頭一間 Húsavík North Sailing 嘅辦事處度,出示佢哋覆返我嗰個確認電郵,跟住佢哋櫃位就會印返張正式用嚟上船嘅船飛過我,咁我哋就可以揸住哩張船飛去碼頭嗰邊準備上船嘞。

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睇過天氣預報先出團哩個決定事後睇嚟就相當之正確嘞,哩日晏晝嘅天色比起之前一日嘅真係正好多。

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景色靚除咗因為天氣好之外,查實 Húsavík 本身亦係一個風景相當之優美嘅小鎮嚟。

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就算唔係為咗出海觀鯨,如果去開冰島北部嘅話我都會推薦喺 Húsavík 哩度停一站住返佢一至兩晚;喺哩次冰島之行嘅咁多個中途站當中,我覺得 Húsavík 哩度係我住過風景最靚感覺最舒服嘅一個城鎮嚟。

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講返個觀鯨團,我哋上船之前要先著起一件由個團供應嘅蛤乸衣 (啫嗰啲一件過衫連褲嘅保護衣),件蛤乸衣主要係用嚟防水同保暖嘅。我哋出海嗰日嘅天氣唔差,起航之後都冇乜風浪。不過我睇過一啲遊記講話個網主跟哩啲觀鯨團出海唔好彩遇上風浪,結果喺船上搞到暈晒船浪,對鞋又俾啲沖上甲板嘅浪花濺到濕晒。

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起航後大約行咗大半個鐘船程就開始見到個天空啲雲越嚟越厚,同開船嗰陣藍天白雲嘅天色完全唔同晒 .com/blogger_img_proxy/。我哋首先到達一個小島嘅附近去睇小島對出海面上嘅 Puffins。查實野生嘅雀鳥一般都怕人,條船駛向啲有 Puffins 聚集嘅位置嗰陣啲雀就自然會散開,所以船同雀此終會保持住一個幾遠吓嘅距離;因為咁哩次睇雀嘅體驗同我哋早兩日喺 Borgarfjörður 嗰晚就相差好遠嘞。

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不過捕野生生態哩家嘢就永遠冇話保証去到就一定有得睇嘅,如果我哋喺 Borgarfjörður 嗰晚睇唔到 Puffins 嘅話,咁哩次船程就會變成我哋今次冰島行程中唯一一次睇到 Puffins 嘅機會;所以値唔值得俾多幾嚿水喺哩個觀鯨嘅船程當中順道去睇埋雀,哩個我覺得都係幾見仁見智㗎。我哋追 Puffins 嘅船程大約十零分鐘,睇完雀跟住條船就會向住追蹤鯨魚嘅航程進發嘞。

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睇完雀之後行咗大半個鐘船程,忽然間聽到船上其他團友一陣騷動嘅聲音,原來遠處海面終於出現鯨魚嘅蹤影嘞.com/blogger_img_proxy/

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之後船嘅周圍時不時都會發現鯨蹤,不過啲鯨魚同我哋嘅距離都重係好遠吓。

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查實哩啲距離已經係我本來嘅預期,此終係野生嘅生態,喺香港嗰啲中華白海豚嘅觀賞團好多時出咗海之後都係食白果返歸,就算有海豚出現多數就係喺啲咁上下嘅距離度睇到。

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不過再過多陣,我哋開始發覺啲鯨魚出現嘅位置越嚟越接近 .com/blogger_img_proxy/;開頭啲鯨魚接近嗰陣好多都出現喺啲背光嘅位置度,不過我估我哋揸船嗰位船長都相當醒目,好快佢就將條船駛去正光嘅位置度方便我哋影相。

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聽船員大哥後來嘅解說,我哋哩日見到嘅好大機會係 Minke Whales 同 Humpback Whales 哩兩隻品種嘅鯨魚嚟。

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座頭鯨 Humpback Whales 嘅蹤跡主要係分布喺從南極冰緣到北緯 65 度一帶嘅海面。座頭鯨係一個有遷移習性嘅物種,佢哋每年遷徙嘅路程長達 25,000 公里。

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由 11 世紀到 1930 年代末,小鰛鯨 Minke Whales 都係巴西、加拿大、中國、格陵蘭、日本、韓國同挪威捕鯨漁民嘅獵殺對象;當時捕鯨嘅活動急劇增加,直至 1986 年先至普遍地受到禁止。但係日本同冰島嘅漁民仍然繼續以科學研究嘅理由去捕獵小鰛鯨,而挪威亦喺 1993 年重新展開捕鯨嘅活動。

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不過跟據哩個團嘅船員大哥對我哋嘅解說,好多去冰島玩嘅遊客誤以為鯨魚肉係冰島嘅傳統菜式因而貪得意走去餐廳試食,而事實上喺冰島大部份嘅鯨魚肉都係由外地遊客所消耗,冰島嘅本地人已經絕少會食鯨魚肉。所以各位如果有機會去冰島玩嘅話,就唔好再貪得意走去試食鯨魚嘞,事關冇人去食鯨魚哩啲無謂嘅獵殺活動先至會有停止嘅一日㗎。

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講完鯨魚跟住同大家繼續觀鯨嘞,我哋今次查實都有少少運,有好幾次啲鯨魚直情係喺我哋條船嘅側邊度蒲頭,同我哋做解說嗰位船員大哥都話佢喺 Húsavík 哩度帶觀鯨團帶咗五年,哩日咁嘅觀鯨盛況佢都係第一次見咁話 .com/blogger_img_proxy/

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不過之後我哋喺 Varmahlíð 嗰站嘅民宿度同一對美國嚟嘅夫婦吹水,佢哋話之前一日佢哋都喺 Húsavík 度好近咁睇到鯨魚;咁到底係剛啱我哋出海嗰兩日撞啱有班鯨魚出 ~觀人團~ 所以佢哋游到咁近嚟睇我哋,定還是查實個個團出海都一般可以咁近睇到鯨魚,只係嗰位船員大哥不嬲都係咁吹五年一遇嚟氹啲客開心,咁就不得而知嘞。

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我哋大約晏晝 17:30 由 Húsavík 嘅碼頭開船出發,到黃昏 20:30 條船就開始回程嘅航程嘞。

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哩段回程嘅航程都唔只係齋望住個海等返歸咁悶 ~ 首先船員大哥會同啲團友試玩吓張開船上嘅船帆。

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玩過出海揚帆之後,船員大哥就拎啲預先準備好嘅熱朱古力同肉桂卷出嚟俾我哋食嘞 .com/blogger_img_proxy/。肉桂卷哩家嘢係芬蘭一款幾出名嘅小食嚟,原本諗住去到赫爾辛基嗰朝早點都要喺火車站整返杯咖啡配件肉桂卷做早餐試吓嘅,點知嚟到 Húsavík 哩度就已經有機會試到哩款小食。

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到大約夜晚 22:30 我哋返到民宿,頭先出發前咁早食過一餐,返到嚟就梗係要整返個消夜先至沖涼瞓覺啦。未食消夜之前我就先整杯冰島嘅特色小食 Skyr 試吓。我見好多講去冰島嘅遊記啲人都話食哩杯嘢食到上晒癮,日日都要整返杯先至安樂,不過我食過就覺得杯嘢並冇啲人講到咁好食,哩杯嘢嘅口感同乳絡差唔多,不過淡而無味,我就要撈啲生果落去幫杯嘢添返啲甜味先至食得慣。

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食完杯 Skyr 冇幾耐,我朋友煮飯嗰陣諗住用個煱烘一烘啲麵包,佢一時重手整得燶咗少少啲麵包出咗啲煙,點知嗰少少煙就整著咗屋入面一個好敏感嘅火警鐘。警鐘一響當堂嚇到全屋樓上隔離嘅住客衝晒出嚟 .com/blogger_img_proxy/~ 搞到咁大鑊唯有一路沙冧一路揾辦法整停個警鐘啦,好彩啲同屋好快就幫手揾到個警鐘嘅控制面板撳返停個警鐘。

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開咗場咁别開生面嘅六國大封相,再繼續煮埋個飯,食完哩餐消夜結果又係搞到零晨先有得沖涼瞓覺,而我哋哩一日嘅行程亦就此順利完成嘞。

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