Pilatus 皮拉圖斯峰 Golden Round Trip - 瑞士自由行之旅

Blog in Progress
行程摘要 :
Obergütschhalde => Luzern (Bus Route NFB 10, Free with Swiss Pass)
Luzern => Alpnachstad (BAT Boat trip, Free with Swiss Pass)
Alpnachstad => Pilatus Kulm (Cog Wheel Railway, Half Price with Swiss Pass)

行程嘅第十三日,呢一日我哋會跟住上 Pilatus 皮拉圖斯峰嘅 Golden Round Trip 路線試走一轉。

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上 Pilatus 嚟講,一般會跟官方推介嘅兩條路線上山,亦啫係傳説中嘅 Silver Round Trip 同 Golden Round Trip,喺來往 Pilatus Kulm 同 Alpnachstad 嘅車飛背面亦印咗一個路線圖去介紹呢兩條上山嘅路線。



呢兩條上山路線主要嘅分别,就係由 Lucern 去到 Alpnachstad 呢段路程係經陸路還是水路,如果係經 Silver Round Trip 陸路嘅路線去嘅話,就要由 Lucern 站搭火車,唔使轉車坐 5 個站去到 Alpnachstad 站,車程快靚正廿分鐘有找。

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之但係如果想喺瑞士浪費吓光陰,慢慢咁欣賞吓 Lake Lucerne 嘅湖光山色嘅話,咁就要跟我哋一齊經 Golden Round Trip 嘅水路路線出發喇。

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揸住 Swiss Pass 嘅話由 Lucern 去到 Alpnachstad 嘅呢程船河同搭火車一樣係完全免費。我哋朝早先坐 NFB 10 號巴士落去 Luzern 火車站,然後就步行過去海邊嘅碼頭等開船嘞。

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呢個網站可以下載由 Lucern 開往 Alpnachstad 嘅船期班次資料,相同嘅資料查實用 SBB 個電話 App 都可以查到。

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唔同嘅班次中間停站嘅碼頭會有啲分別,如果坐啲飛得多站嘅班次嘅話,由 Luzern 出發起計一個鐘鬆啲就可以去到 Alpnachstad,如果撞啱嗰班船係站站停嘅話,就差唔多要坐兩個鐘先去得到 Alpnachstad。

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我哋呢個朝早坐嘅係 10:38 出發嘅航班,都算係停得多站嘅一班船嚟。

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Luzern 此終係大城市,湖邊嘅景物比較豐富。

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離開咗 Luzern 之後,經過 Verkehrsahus-Lido 同 Kastanienbaum 兩個碼頭,途中好似都冇乜特别嘅風景。

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下一站係 Kehrsiten Bürgenstock,喺 Bürgenstock 有一程纜索鐵路可以登頂睇景,都算係一個旅遊熱點嚟。

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可能因為咁,條船喺呢個碼頭會停耐些少。

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船程坐咗差唔多一個鐘,去到 Kehrsiten Dorf 嘅碼頭再停一站。

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跟住喺 Hergiswil 再停一站,我望一望電話入面嘅班次列表,下一站應該就到尾站 Alpnachstad 嘞。

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呢程船全程大約個半鐘,感覺上坐喺船上面睇到 Lake Lucerne 嘅風景查實唔算係好特別。

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不過一場嚟到瑞士,揾個機會遊吓船河都係一種唔同嘅體驗嚟。

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晏晝十二點鬆啲我哋就到達 Alpnachstad 嘅碼頭嘞。

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離開碼頭見到一個指示牌,跟住箭咀個方向穿過一條行人隧道,就去到買飛上 Pilatus 嘅票務處嘞。

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來往 Pilatus 一般嘅路線係由 Alpnachstad 呢度坐齒軌鐵路上到 Pilatus Kulm 嘅酒店同遊客中心,喺 Pilatus 玩夠之後先搭一程纜車落去 Fräkmüntegg,落車再轉另一款纜車去到 Kriens。

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上落三程車揸 Swiss Pass 買飛嘅話就半價折實盛惠 CHF 36 大元,不論係 Golden Round Trip 定係 Silver Round Trip 都係經呢條路線上落 Pilatus。

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我哋買完飛剛啱就有一班車準備開出,大伙兒急急腳跑上車,月台嘅職員見上齊人跟手就鎖車門開車嘞。

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之前都有提過,今次我哋坐上 Pilatus 嘅鐵路亦係一個世界之最嚟。

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呢條係全球最陡斜嘅 Cog Wheel Railway 齒軌鐵路,亦係一條擁有過百年歷史嘅鐵路線,鐵路首次開通已經係兩個世紀前嘅 1889 年。

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喺十九世紀嗰陣呢度嘅列車都係以蒸氣動力發動,直到 1937 年呢條鐵路先改為以電力發動嘅車卡行駛,不過自從十九世紀到今時今日鐵路所沿用嘅都係同一套齒軌技術一直都冇變過。

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大約半個鐘車程我哋就到達山頂站 Pilatus Kulm,今次瑞士之行都有些少運,經常都俾我哋碰到啲傳統嘅表演,我哋出咗車站四圍蕩咗冇幾耐就又有騷睇喇。

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嗱圖中個阿伯吹梗嘅呢碌嘢就叫做 Alphorn 阿爾卑斯長號,Alphorn 呢隻樂器已經擁有超過 500 年嘅歷史,Alphorn 喺好耐好耐以前查實係一種用嚟召唤乳牛嘅召喚術嚟,以前嘅牧人會發動呢個術將啲牛隻從牧場召喚返去牛欄度。

到 19 世紀,瑞士嘅奶酪業從山區轉至村鎮嘅乳品工廠之後,使用 Alphorn 嘅場合就變得越嚟越少;到大約 1820 年,一位喺 Bern 打骰嘅官員 Niklaus von Mülinen 開始積極挽救呢隻傳統樂器,佢將一啲被遺棄嘅 Alphorn 修複 並派去俾啲喺 Grindelwald 嘅樂師試圖演奏,通過呢啲積極嘅推廣活動,失去原本實用價值嘅 Alphorn 慢慢就轉變成為瑞士地區嘅代表性樂器。

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除咗圍住阿伯嘅人群之外,一隻 Alpine Chough 亦踎咗喺條欄杆上面好專心咁喺度聽歌。

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睇完騷我哋先簡單食個自備嘅午餐稍作休息,跟住就揀咗兩條山徑行去 Pilatus 嘅兩個高點欣賞風景嘞。

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我哋行嘅第一條山徑係通往一個叫 Tomlishorn 嘅山峰,呢條山徑好易行,廿零分鐘就行到山頂。

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由嘅度可以欣賞到 Luzern 一帶山脈嘅壯觀景色。

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由呢個位置望過去,應該係 Luzern、Meggen 同 Weggis 呢幾個城鎮一帶嘅湖景嚟。

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近啲嘅就係 Pilatus 山上其中一座酒店 Hotel Bellevue。

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我哋一陣離場嗰陣,就會坐呢隻咁樣嘅纜車先由 Pilatus Kulm 落一站去 Fräkmüntegg。

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睇完 Tomlishorn 呢邊峰頂嘅景色,我哋行返落去酒店平台轉往另一條通去 Esel 峰頂嘅山徑。

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呢邊嘅山徑路途比之前嗰條長些少,不過亦唔算太難行。

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由 Esel 呢邊望落去 Lake Lucerne,應該就係之前遊船河經過嘅 Hergiswil 同另一邊岸 Stansstad,呢幾個市鎮一帶嘅湖景。

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由呢度望近些少就係 Pilatus 山頂上另一座酒店 Hotel Pilatus Kulm。

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酒店對面嘅山峰就係我哋剛剛行完嘅 Tomlishorn。

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除咗坐纜車之外,查實亦可以經好幾條健行路線徒歩落山。

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睇完 Pilatus 兩座山峰上嘅湖光山色,亦差唔多係時候落山揾啲其他嘢玩吓。

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